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Steamboat Magazine

A Slice of Island Life: Maui Artisan Sourdough's Rocky Mountain Dream

12/10/2024 02:56PM ● By Haley Watkins
Photos by Gavin Liddell.

Mark and Martina Willard swapped the sandy shores of Maui for the snow-capped peaks of Steamboat Springs, bringing with them a passion for sourdough that has captured the hearts -- and appetites -- of locals. Mark started Maui Artisan Sourdough in 2017 and launched their food truck in 2023. The food truck called The Boat Yard and Yampa Valley Hop House home during the summers and the couple quickly became a community favorite. Their handmade bread and mouthwatering sandwiches were an instant hit, and this past October, they opened a brick-and-mortar bakery on the west side of town, at 2655 Copper Ridge Circle.

“After spending a winter in the truck, we wanted to make a more permanent home here,” Mark says. “We’ve found a place that really embraces that slower pace of life we were looking for.”

Mark, originally from San Diego, has always been drawn to the art of cooking. After years working as a chef for The Four Seasons and The Hyatt, he found his true calling in sourdough.

“I got my first starter from another chef, and it really snowballed from there,” Mark says. The move to Maui, where Mark and his brother opened Alchemy Maui, would be a turning point. Initially focusing on farm-to-table lunch options, their sourdough became an island sensation. Demand grew so quickly that Mark had to hire additional staff just to keep up with baking orders.

“We became the largest sourdough wholesaler on the island, supplying 22 locations, including cafés, restaurants and grocery stores,” he says. But long hours -- often 15 per day -- led the Willards to rethink their lifestyle.

After years of fast-paced work in Maui, Mark and Martina craved a slower, simpler life; one that embraced the quiet rhythm of the mountains. Steamboat, where Mark’s family had vacationed for years, became the ideal destination.

“We wanted to be part of a community like this -- where people know each other and look out for one another,” Mark says. In 2023, they made the bold decision to drive their Maui Artisan Sourdough food truck from New Mexico to Steamboat, officially marking the beginning of their new chapter.

 

Mark’s obsession with perfecting sourdough began years ago. He spent countless hours in his Maui kitchen, baking what he humorously refers to as “bricks” before finally mastering the craft. The key to great sourdough? Science and patience.

“Every loaf is a product of practice and consistency,” Mark says. He credits his success to his starter -- a living culture of yeast and bacteria that he’s been cultivating for over 13 years. For him, baking is not just a job; it’s an ongoing experiment.

“The climate here presents its own challenges,” Mark admits. "The humidity in Maui was one thing, but Colorado’s dry air is a whole new puzzle to solve. I love the challenge -- weather and seasons always play a role in how the bread turns out.”

The Willards are excited for what’s next. They have plans to expand their offerings, with their sourdough loaves -- garlic and plain -- now available at Natural Grocers in Steamboat. For now, they’re focused on making the most of their new bakery and embracing the pace of their new life, with the food truck returning during the summer months.

“We love how everyone here has each other’s backs,” Mark says of the community spirit in Steamboat. “It reminds me of island life, but with snow instead of sand.”

The bakery, which opened in October, is located at 2655 Copper Ridge Circle (across from Elk River Pet and Ranch). Favorite loaves include the Hawaiian Black Sea Salt Boule and, Mark's personal favorite, the Roasted Garlic Sourdough. The food truck is currently put away for the winter but when it resurfaces, Mark and Martina will offer their signature sandwiches including the BBQ Chicken Club and a loaded Grilled Cheese and Tomato Soup in a homemade sourdough bread bowl.

For the Willards, the decision to trade ocean views for mountain vistas was about more than just a change of scenery -- it was about finding a place where they could continue their craft and contribute to a community they love, one loaf at a time.

 

MAKE YOUR OWN SOURDOUGH STARTER

Sourdough starter is deceptively simple, but it requires patience. Begin with a glass jar, 1 cup of flour, and 1 cup of water. Stir until the mixture reaches a pancake-like consistency. Cover with a breathable cloth, secure with a rubber band, and let it sit on the counter.

“Consistency is key,” Mark advises. “Check it at the same time the following day. Sourdough likes routine.”

During the next five days you will discard half of the starter and refeed with another equal parts water and flour. By day five, you should start to see a bubbly, spongy starter that’s ready for baking.